The ritual of bathing has never been more sublime that at the new, stylish Hoshinoya resort. This is no traditional hot spring. Hoshinoya sits firmly in twenty-first century. Green geothermal energy supplies the underfloor heating, and the surroundings ate seriously contemporary. Dark wood and stone floors replace the familiar tatami mats.
As well as open-air baths, a maze of low-ceilinged indoor baths leads to meditation bath lit by underwater spotlight. Soothing music works well with the heat and sulfurous vapors to give a memorable bathing experience.
Outside lush terraces and waterfalls are a feast for the senses, surrounded by Karuizawa’s thick forest of Japanese maple, which turns glorious shades of gold and crimson in the autumn. Near Nagano, in central Honshu, the resort’s cottages are arranged around a small river. No two rooms are the same, although each one has a private bathtub that looks out over the river and luxuriously fills with onsen water at the touch of a button.
Away from the onsen, there are guided eco-tours of the forest and stargazing evenings. Curl up in the library with a good book or join other guests for gentle morning stretching exercises. Hoshinoya is hot spring heaven.
